Subscribe to the Roland Newsletter to get the latest articles, videos, and news about your favorite Roland products. Protect your investment. Register your product and stay up-to-date with the latest warranty information. Designed for serious drummers, the TD delivers pro-level sounds, intuitive operation, and natural playability. And with the streamlined interface, you can easily customize sounds and create personalized kits perfectly suited for your style and touch.
Listen to three of the preset drum kits in the Standard category. Listen to three of the preset drum kits in the Rock category. Listen to three of the preset drum kits in the Metal category. Listen to three of the preset drum kits in the Jazz category. Listen to three of the preset drum kits in the Funk category. Listen to three of the preset drum kits in the Electro category.
From rim shots, rolls, flams, and ghost notes on the snare to dramatic crash hits and sustained cymbal swells, every nuance is accurate and smooth. To further extend the natural playing feel, the TD provides positional snare sensing with compatible Roland drum pads, and also supports the VH V-Hi-Hat for authentic hi-hat playing techniques.
With its no-nonsense interface, the TD lets you enjoy playing great sounds for any music right away. Easy to grab while holding sticks, the large center dial allows you to quickly select kits based on music styles such as standard, rock, jazz, electronic, and others. Next step?
Start playing! The TD makes it simple to edit sounds to suit your playing touch or a specific style of music. Just hit a pad to call up the sound assigned to it, and then use the panel knobs to select instruments and tweak tuning, muffling, and levels. Handy shortcuts greatly speed up tom editing, allowing you to assign sounds and change the muffling and tuning for all the toms at once.
Your changes are saved automatically as you edit, eliminating the need to fuss with extra steps. Want a little jamming music to play along with? Alternately, you can plug a smartphone into the audio input and drum with songs from your music library or the web. Hybrid drumming combines technology with acoustic drums, so you can reinforce and complement your acoustic drum sound by adding electronic sounds.
Read more…. Compact and reliable single-trigger pad that easily mounts to a drum tension rod or other rod-type mounts. All-in-one kick trigger pedal with innovative reverse-action trigger mechanism for low-noise operation. Easy to install, the single-trigger RTH attaches securely to the metal rim of nearly any standard drum. Ideal for use on snare drums, the RTHR supports independent head and rim triggering for playing two different sounds from the same drum.
Optimized for personal monitoring while playing V-Drums, RHV headphones deliver accurate, punchy sound that inspires. Highly effective sound isolation foot designed to be used with a kick pad and hi-hat stand in a V-Drums set. Here are ten new custom drum kits for TD Load them into your TD and you can immediately enjoy distinctive sounds.
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You can also contact our Product Support department by phone or email. Roland Users Group Read, watch, listen, and learn about Roland products and the people that use them. Email Support Get your questions answered by a Roland product specialist. Register Products Protect your investment.BTW, they got a cat d6 and it works awesome. Not enough details here to make a statment to that. We're talking about a 30 year old plus crawler. To expect it to perform flawlessly is not a reality.
These machines and most others have been run by cowboy operators and the likes for years on end. It's true the earlier 25 series had some problems along with the 24 but I don't think I'd call them junk. The later ones I think were a little more refined and seemed to do okay from what I've read on here. If they were a compelete lost cause dresser never would've bought them out and continued to make them.
Is that last pic a parts machine or the fixer upper? I only ask cause at that stage it looks really tired Hmm, one thing mentioned, about the age, a B Series could be 45 yrs or older, they stopped building them in ' We have several B's in this area that still work great, not full time though. As some members here found out they are beginning to show their age, as your uncles found out. Too bad to hear you had a bad experience with them, many other folks have worked them for a long time with good service!!
They were designed in with many features going back to TD24's, which given the chance to be properly developed without being rushed out the door, would have had a lot better outcome than they did, it was pretty much up the B series to help IH get over that. There were many 25B's sold here which worked in some of the toughest conditions on the continent. Well, whoopee do. Since he never said what quit working, or what happened, I would venture a guess as it either ran out of fuel as mentioned, or ran out of lubricant and no one ever checked.
Metal on metal don't last long with these rascals. If that D6 only needs paint that shows some details as to the whole maintenance subject, maybe only me but those tracks look like they are a little flat to me, not much lip left on them.
Gotta remember machinery that gets used is prone to wearing out. Does it suck sure it does, but if you want something that isn't gonna need repair you have two options:.
Seems like you're kinda comparing an apple to a watermelon there when you compare a cat d6 to a tdDiscussion in ' Dozers ' started by MarksanMar 1, Log in or Sign up.
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Welcome to HeavyEquipmentForums. Td Discussion in ' Dozers ' started by MarksanMar 1, Joined: Apr 20, Messages: 69 Location: Canada. Hello Guys, After that it will become a big boy toy. Cheers all. MarksanMar 1, TDC working in a quarry will be use gallons in hours when pushing and ripping steady.
It is a good solid tractor with good power. Roughly equal to a 46A in weight and power.Log in or Sign up. Heavy Equipment Forums.
International Harvester TD-25 Specifications
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Thank you! Thank you for joining Heavy Equipment Forums! If you are new to forums we communicate with "Threads", please search our threads to see if your topic may have already been answered and if not then click "Post New Thread" in the appropriate forum.
This will allow all of our members to see your question and give you the best chance to be answered. After you've made a number of posts you will graduate to Full Member status where you'll see a few more privileges. Following these guidelines will help make this the best resource for heavy equipment on the net.
Thanks for joining us and I hope you enjoy your stay!! Welcome to HeavyEquipmentForums. TD25 - What's it worth? Joined: Jul 30, Messages: 3 Location: Arkansas.
Hi there I can't find the serial number on it. The owner said it was a model. Has had a new head put on it but it has been sitting for about 8 months though it started right up and did its business. After about an hour, it started to smoke real black - turbo bad??
Is it worth the trouble? I would be using it to clear a home site HillBillyJohnJul 31, CountryboyAug 1, Last edited: Aug 1, A B series has the International engine. If it goes bad the machine is worth less that scrap price. They don't make that engine anymore and parts are almost nonexistant. John C. Td25b ???????? Hi, HillBillyJohn. Welcome to the forum. I ran a TD25C in early and the 'C's had been out for a little while then so I'm wondering if the current owner might not be 'flexing' the truth a little about its age.
That black smoke is a sign to be VERY wary of the beast. You say it showed up after an hour of operation. Well, turbos have been known to give up without warning. Just the same, check the air cleaner first. A choked air cleaner will cause black smoke with SOME power loss but it comes on gradually.The standard transmission was the 4-speed syncromesh with 2-speed tracks of the TD The optional transmission was a 2-speed power shift combined with a torque converter and 2-speed tracks.
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International Harvester TD-24
Main hydraulic pump shaft seal could be the culprit on all TD25C's. Pump is mounted above the torque converter and drives off of a gear train in the bell housing that is engine oil lubed. Other possible on later machines is the steering pump which is a piston pump driven by the front gear train on front right side of the engine.
Earlier units had a small gear pump driven off the front gear train and at the front right side of the engine. This can be identified by two filters mounted with it. A small oil tank under the hood, rt side just ahead of the firewall fed this pump, so would not be the cause of hyd oil getting to the engine oil. I don't think it would be the oil cooler, since it's engine coolant that cools the oil. The bell housing is "wet" but it is converter oil from main frame reservoirnot engine oil that's in there.
So it could be the rear main seal leaking into the engine. I put a tee in the oil pressure line so I can drain the extra oil down to the correct level on start up and run engine oil in the hyd. If your running 10wt or HyTran in the main frame, be careful that the engine oil doesn't get diluted out.
You might have more serious problems arising I'm running engine oil in the hydraulic system, when I drain off a gallon from the engine the hydraulic tank is about a gallon low. MC, I'm just thinking out loud but give it a try, bleed the pressure off at the end of the day and see what happens. And due to gravity and psi would pass oil past a bad pump seal. Normally a pump shaft seal does not see pressure while running.
Pede has good idea to relieve pressure at shut down until the problem is dealt with. Tank pressure is controlled by the tank vent assembly. Can't remember normal, maybe psi. I'll be running it this weekend, I will give that a try, the vent is next to the fill cap I'm going to tee a gauge into it and let you know what I see. I have 5 25s and u got a real deal.
Fun to run. Check your other things out as well, but a new pump doesn't necessarily mean it won't leak. The owner had replaced them himself, have no idea where he got them from.I need help figuring out how to adjust the winch on my TD25 series dozer.
Yes it does have a break band on the drum and I tried cleaning last year bu that did not help. Maybe even made it worse. Best power unit they ever made, way better then the p25 or p All you should need to do it tighten up one nut just a bit, can't tell exactly which one but watch while you release the lever and the linkage will release one of the band rods and pull on the other, the one it releases is the one to tighten, do this while it's running.
The reason this one is so much better, it uses eyebolts and linkage where the old ones used cam and rollers. Wow, that is one clean 25! It does leak hydronic oil and I have not figured from where. The ROPS sure looks factory, someone did a super job on it! Looks like you're out west in the mountains, Utah? As mentioned those cable units are good, but there again getting parts my not be very easy. I can't tell from the pics if it's still all intact, but if the left side isn't used anymore, you can "rob" parts from that side.
You just need to tighten the nut on the holding cam a tad and that should stop your blade from settling. It is different than yours, but the clutch plate adjustment gets the blade up in the air or let's it down. The brake band holds it there. Sorry I don't have adjustment procedures for this CCU model.
You might have to [pull the side cover off and make sure the brake band is grabbing the drum. Might have grease on it? Band worn? I seem to remember reading about it's use in an old operators manual for a "Thew:" shovel crane.
From what I see in the pictures you don't have an oil problem and probably just need to adjust the one nut.